RE: Best place to buy Eternabond
Another A+ for Best Materials. 50ft roll for less than a 37ft roll direct from Eternabond.....
Only $65 delivered to me.
Steve
RE: 911
I was at Wahneta Elementary school in Polk County, repairing a phone line for the migrant advocate and listening to the "MJ morning show" on the radio. He broke in and said an airliner just hit the first trade center building. Then said they'd hit the other building. Went to the office and watched the horror on the news.
The rest of the week the phones were messed up all over our county, and everyone was in a daze about everything. People were trying to call schools that day to pull their kids out of school, and were showing up at the school in a panic when the phones didn't work.
We can never forget the day they brought the war to the innocents...on our soil.
RE: 13.5 AC vs. 15K
One thing to consider when choosing between the 13.5k and 15k, will it be on generator power at all? What size generator will it require? Will the upgrade to 15K require a larger amp service?
Just things to ponder,
BTW my 27ft gets plenty cold in Central Florida in 90+ heat on a 13.5k unit set to low fan -> medium cool.
Good luck and happy camping,
Steve
RE: Need help locating "clip-on tow mirrors" (K source m# 3891)
Thanks, they show them on their website, so unless someone uncovers a cheaper online alternative, Advanceautoparts.com it is....
Pep boys had them for $25 when they had them, but $30 isn't out of the question if I can't find them elsewhere....
Thanks again!!!!
Steve
Need help locating "clip-on tow mirrors" (K source m# 3891)
I borrowed a "clip-on towing mirror" from my father-in-law to test it out before buying. It is a K source "Fit System" "Clip-on Towing Mirror" model # 3891 you can see it at:
Racheting Clip on mirrors I liked
I have to say I was shocked at how stable and vibration free it is compared to my $12 crappy clip-ons.
Anyway an exhaustive search of the internet hasn't given me a source yet. He purchased it at a local Pep Boys but they no longer have any and haven't been helpful in reordering.
Anyone know of an online source where I can buy 3 of them (2 for me and 1 to complete my FIL's set).
Thanks in advance,
Steve L.
RE: Power jack blew fuse/melted wires
In this case FREE of CHARGE isn't at all free.....
Arrange for repair, Drive to storage, hook up trailer, hook up tow bars (probably), drive to Camper World (at 8mpg as he just stated), wait for it to be fixed etc.
My time is worth more that this. I'm sure his is as well. Especially when most likely a 30 amp inline fuse (w/12GA wire) is only $3 at Radio Shack, and the splice only takes about 5 minutes going slow. Fix it yourself and you'll know its done right.
Then call up Camper World and complain to them, and see if they give you a gift card or credit or something out of the deal.
It can't hurt,
Steve
P.S. If the jack is bad, call CW or maker, and see what they are going to do to resolve the issue.
RE: Propane Smell in Hot Weather
I hope they have good quality pigtails. I just bought 2 to replace a leaking hose and the design was horrible. It didn't even have an o-ring or anything on the OPD fitting to hose. Any time I wiggled the hose it woud leak. I can't remember the brand, but both NEW hoses did it. Then I took the old hose and tightened it down just right and it didn't leak . . . so back to Dusty's Camper World went the bad pigtails.....
RE: I think we goofed...
Not so fast, you need more info to know if its definately too much trailer. A few more figures are needed.
Unloaded weight of trailer
unloaded weight of truck
max loaded weight of truck and trailer (GCVWR)
weight of cargo in truck (including passengers but not first 150lbs of driver)
weight of cargo in trailer
Max weight of truck (GVWR):
Max weight of trailer (GVWR): 5600
Max truck tow rating: 5500
truck max tongue weight:
trailer unloaded tongue weight:
trailer loaded to 100lbs below GVWR tongue weight
length of trailer:
wheel base of tow vehicle:
all these factor into whether or not its too much trailer for your purposes.
Just never exceed, tongue weight (but between 10% and 15% of trailer loaded weight should be on tongue), GVWR (truck, gear in truck, and people),GVWR (trailer and gear in trailer), GCVWR (truck,trailer, gear in both, and people). IF these numbers aren't exceeded you MAY be perfectly safe in towing within reasonable distances, grades, etc.
Also invest in a good (prodigy or techonsha P3) Electronic Brake Controller. Should also use a weight distributing hitch system.
Just post your #'s and let more people have a chance to see the post before rash decisions are made.
You could always upgrade the tow vehicle at a later date if you don't like it once you run it.
RE: HELP, TT we just bought has floor rot
Wow thanks for the response.
I guess I wasn't clear enough in my description (not that big of a surprise). Both layers of luan and all foam has been removed. The interior belly wrap is all that stands between me and the under body belly wrap. The bottom luan was so rotten, (and soaking wet) that I could just rub it to bits. The only wood left now is the wood thats between the belly wrap and the aluminum framing (and only where it staples in).
About using the aluminum L brackets and corner supports, I haven't been able to find any so far at Lowes, I'm guessing I'll either have to special order it from Grainers or something, or maybe a local old timey hardware store.
I have thought about using one of those truck or van rubber mats used for extreme weather (really a big pan to hold water). Then put in a drain tube to allow safe passage of the water through the floor and out the same drain that the battery box drains through to the outside.
Please feel free to offer any suggestions you think valuable.
Thanks so far,
Steve L.
RE: HELP, TT we just bought has floor rot
Thanks for the image Bucky Badger, I appreciate it. Hopefully someone's been thru the same thing and has some stellar ideas for me.
THanks again,
Steve L.
HELP, TT we just bought has floor rot
My wife and I bought a 2000 Flagstaff 827fls (superlite) travel trailer a few weeks ago. Well as we were cleaning it to get ready for our inaugural trip, a weak spot was found (knee crunched thru luan in jackknife sofa area. I ripped out the linoleoum and found a sickeningly rotten, and actively wet floor in the front part of camper (sofa, kitchen area).
I've determined that the leak in the front is coming in thru the front access hatch. We have LP tanks in front of unit, not on the hitch, and they require a large hatch. It looks nearly identical to this camper Lazydays RV SuperCenter Camper that looks like mine I've already completely gutted the floor, and found only aluminum box frames. So atleast I don't have to replace any floor joists. The kitchen leak was from a leak the previous owner disclosed to us as coming from the Roof mount TV antenna which was broken and we've removed it and capped the hole. The front leak thru the hatch I'm planning to modify the door (its not sealing tightly causing water infultration). I think I'm going to add 2 more twist locks, like the hatch already has on lower left side of the door, in the upper two wings of the front door. I'm also pricing replacement of the door, but not looking forward to drilling out the pop-riveted piano hinge that its mounted to.
I have been racking by brains trying to figure out the best method to replace the floor. Original construction was the usual luan 3/8" (I assume), 1.5" XPS (cheap cooler foam), and 3/8" luan. The way it was built originally was wood stapled to aluminum frame, then foam the same thickness as the aluminum square tubing, then stapled luan. I would like to leave the fully intact belly wrap in place (both external and under floor sheet) so I don't have to mess with reskinning the belly.
On to my project and questions, what is the best way to insure a suitable floor surface? I was thinking of either pop riviting 2 holed L brackets to the 1.5" aluminum framing, with corner shelfs to hold 1/2" plywood, then install 2 new 1.5" square tube aluminum crossmembers in each of the 2 frame boxes (think adding a plus sign inside the current square of framing). Then use whatever thickness foam will fit, and top it with the thickest plywood that will fit under the furniture (kitchen, counter, slide, door frame) probably stuck with 3/8" top ply.
Some questions:
1. Any issues using zinc plated steel in close contact long term with aluminum pop-rivets and aluminum square tubing?
2. Do you think 1/2" plywood would be a strong enough support even thought its being suspended by brackets, or should I go up to 3/4" ply and less foam. Also there are 2 beams running the length of trailer on either side just under the floor wrap, but only 6" or so from edges of alum box frames. Or should I just throw 3/4" ply on the beams and call it good.
3. Any suggestions for a better way?
4. Suggestions for something to replace the wood that is lighter, as strong, rot resistant, but not prohibitively expensive?
5. Should I spend the money on exterior grade plywood (pressure treated) or would the increased alkalinity also cause increased support corrosion?
Bonus Question: Am I over thinking things a bit too much and should just slap it together and see what happens?
{THIS SPACE RESERVED FOR CORRECTIONS TO MY HORRIBLE WRITING)
Thanks in advance,
Steve L.
Soon to be camping enthusiast (hopefully)
